Introduction to Haeinsa Temple

Haeinsa Temple, nestled in the serene mountains of South Korea, offers a unique glimpse into the spiritual life of Korean Buddhism. In addition to being a place of prayer, this UNESCO World Heritage site is a treasury of ancient learning and the home of the Tripitaka Koreana, one of the largest collections of Buddhist texts in the world.

Through a stay at a temple, I investigate my immersive experience at Haeinsa in this project. Join me as I delve into the rituals, history, and personal reflections that made this journey unforgettable.

The towering trees and far-off echoes of temple bells enveloping me as I approached Haeinsa Temple transported me into a tranquil realm far apart from the busy city life I had left behind. Tucked away in the green stretches of Gayasan National Park, the serene surroundings of the shrine evoked a deep sense of tranquillity right away.

The walk to the temple was physically challenging for me, as I was still recovering from a bike fall the previous day. Despite the discomfort, I remembered being advised to be mentally and physically strong during my stay, putting aside my problems for the night and day I would spend there. With each step, I focused on embodying the principles of Buddhism, using this experience to practice resilience and mindfulness.

Looking back, I am grateful for the physical challenge, as it allowed me to engage more deeply with the teachings of Buddhism. The walk became an unexpected opportunity to internalize the beliefs of a Buddha, transforming a simple journey into a path of personal growth.

Day 1: Arrival, Orientation, and Evening Chanting

The temple stay at Haeinsa offered a unique opportunity to experience life as a Buddhist monk, even for a short time. The program was demanding but insightful, with exercises aimed at fostering inner peace and mindfulness.

Our journey began with a brief orientation on temple etiquette. We learned the basics of walking mindfully and how to position our hands while standing. We were also taught the proper way to bow to the monks we might encounter around the temple grounds. It was emphasized that lights out would be at 9:30 PM, marking the start of a restful night.

Next, the staff took us on a tour of the temple, where we explored the rich history and significance of Haeinsa. The temple, located on Mount Gaya, is home to the Tripitaka Koreana, the most complete collection of Buddhist texts, engraved on 80,000 woodblocks between 1237 and 1248. The Janggyeong Panjeon buildings, dating from the 15th century, were specifically constructed to house these woodblocks, which are revered not only for their content but also as exceptional works of art. As the oldest depository of the Tripitaka, they reveal an astonishing mastery of the invention and implementation of the conservation techniques used to preserve these woodblock (UNESCO World Heritage Centre, n.d.).

As we continued to explore, I noticed the colorful lanterns that I had seen at many other temples. I learned that these vibrant lanterns were often hung to wish for good fortune, with many specifically wishing for children's success in exams. In contrast, the white lanterns were dedicated to those who had passed away, serving as a remembrance.

Once we had familiarized ourselves with the temple customs, we joined the monks for the evening chanting session. The rhythmic chanting echoed throughout the temple, enveloping us in a meditative atmosphere that was both calming and uplifting. Nearby, a labyrinth offered a tranquil space to walk and pray, providing an opportunity for reflection and introspection.

Day 2: A Day in the Life of a Monk

Our second day at Haeinsa Temple began long before dawn, reflecting the disciplined life of the monks who call this sacred place home. We left the rooms at about 4:20 AM and walked toward the Main Dharma Hall in the cool morning air. The only light on the temple grounds was the dim glow from lanterns that led the way. The grounds were still completely dark. The sound of our footsteps and the soft rustle of the leaves was the only thing to break the intense silence as we went. The peaceful surroundings and crisp morning air made me feel at ease. Before long, we reached the spot where the monks were beating the temple drum, the sound of their rhythms resonating through the stillness.

At 4:40 AM, we entered the Main Dharma Hall to join the monks for the Morning Buddhist Ceremony. The hall was dimly lit, with the flickering candlelight casting shadows on the walls. As the ceremony began, the monks chanted in unison, their voices resonating through the hall in harmonious rhythm. The chanting, accompanied by the sound of a wooden moktak, created an atmosphere of deep spirituality and introspection. The ceremony provided a time for reflection and renewal, setting a peaceful tone for the day ahead.

Later in the morning, after enjoying breakfast alongside the monks and spending some free time exploring the temple grounds, we headed to a nearby hill for an engaging spiritual activity: making prayer beads and performing 108 prostrations. This activity was both physically and spiritually challenging. The practice of 108 prostrations symbolizes humility and devotion, with each prostration accompanied by a prayer, focusing the mind and fostering a sense of inner peace.

Following the prostrations, we made prayer beads, threading each bead with intention and care. This meditative practice was a powerful exercise in patience and concentration, leaving me with a tangible reminder of my time at Haeinsa. Although I couldn't complete all 108 prostrations, I found peace in the meditative silence of the room. Afterward, we sat with the doors of the hall open, meditating alongside the sounds and fresh air of nature—a truly serene experience.

After the session, the monk was pleased with how many of us were able to complete the 108 prostrations. We then moved on to one of the day's highlights: a conversation over tea with a monk. Seated at a rectangular table with my peers, we sipped herbal tea and listened as the monk shared insights into Buddhist philosophy and the monastic way of life. His words were thoughtful and inspiring, emphasizing the importance of mindfulness, compassion, and living in the present moment. This conversation offered a deeper understanding of the spiritual practices observed at Haeinsa, and his gentle smile was a comforting reminder of the wisdom of the Buddha.

Participating in the temple stay at Haeinsa was more than just an educational experience; it was a journey of self-discovery. Engaging in daily rituals and embracing the simplicity of monastic life allowed me to reflect deeply on the values of mindfulness, gratitude, and community.

This experience taught me the importance of being present in the moment, a practice that often escapes our mind in our fast-paced world. The quiet strength of the monks and their unwavering dedication to their spiritual path were both humbling and inspiring. I learned to always be present and mindful of my words with others, recognizing the impact they can have. Additionally, I realized that my mental state is key to how I view and approach any situation.

Conclusion

My stay at Haeinsa Temple was a life-changing event that gave me a deep understanding of Korean Buddhism and its continuing significance in the modern world. My journey will be guided by the teachings I learnt and the tranquility I experienced long after I leave the temple grounds.

I am immensely appreciative that I was able to enjoy this experience with such amazing folks. I felt more connected to my late father—who had an intense love for Buddhism throughout his life—during our temple stay. It provided me with an opportunity to pay tribute to his memories and continue his unwavering devotion for the Buddhist teachings.

I try to live by the principle that our perceptions of the world and our responses to it are formed by the responses we give our thoughts permission to have. No matter how little I may have, I will always make an effort to be aware of my surroundings, cultivate deep relationships with others, and never stop looking for ways to provide a helping hand. This is a lesson that I will never forget.

I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to my professor Tony, his wife Minsun, and their daughter for their incredible effort in organizing this experience and making the stay possible. Finally, I would like to express my gratitude to the monks and personnel of Haeinsa Temple, who did a fantastic job of welcoming us and giving us a day-long immersive monastic experience.